First expedition brings whales, dolphins, porpoises...and Storm Kathleen!
Silurian, our dedicated research vessel
The first expedition marked the start of the 2024 summer field season and despite some challenging weather - namely Storm Kathleen - the crew and team of citizen scientists monitored areas of the Southern Hebrides and recorded five species of marine mammal. Here’s their account of the expedition…
DAY 1
It's Sunday 29 March and today marks the start of the Summer field season onboard Silurian. Our wonderful sailboat is in ship shape after a winter of care and maintenance. She's had a fresh lick of paint and a new copper coat on her hull - a more environmentally friendly anti-foul. An updated logo and repaired sails makes this unique and iconic vessel easier to spot while she’s monitoring Hebridean seas.
It's my first trip as Science Officer, having sailed on Silurian as part of my Masters' degree at the Sea Mammal Research Unit (University of St Andrews). I'm joined on board by a fantastic crew: skipper Luke Rendell (who leads the aforementioned course!) and HWDTs chief skipper Emma, moonlighting as our first mate and fourth crew is Helen - HWDTs new Chair of the Trustees. I'm fortunate to be surrounded by a wealth of knowledge as we set sail.
We've welcomed aboard six cheerful and eager guests who will be spending the next 10 days with us on our voyage. Here's to what the next 10 days brings!
DAY 2
After our first night sleeping on the beautiful Silurian we all woke in the knowledge that today was 'The Day' we would all be finding our sea legs, get attuned to our new 'oilies' and get clamped on... literally! Today we were going to sea.
First mate Emma knocked up a magical breakfast with hot toast and overnight oats, copious pots of tea and coffee. The morning educational was warmly received on our full tummies and skipper, Luke, finally let us lose out on deck to put our survey training into practice. What I have noticed so far, is that you get fed more and quite possibly better during an expedition, compared to at home. Anyway, back to the important stuff….monitoring for whales, dolphins and porpoises.
The weather treated us well with sun on our backs and the wind just a mild breeze; we motored past Tobermory lighthouse and out into open water. Pushing on, sightings were limited for this newly formed rabble who were as keen as mustard to finally be called a crew - I'm sure the sun paid a huge price as it glistened like white glossy paint on the ocean surface, but who could possibly moan about the sun? The weather treated us well as we pulled into proximity of Ardnamurchan lighthouse (did you know this is actually the most westerly point of the UK mainland? Forget John O'Groats!). We could well have been off the Azores, as the wild crevasse of the mountainous landscape that surrounded us created havoc with the glistening sea. A small group of porpoises were a sure shopping list item for day 2, and what a beautiful day it had been, role on dinner, role on day 3.
DAY 3
Day three! We surfaced, greeted by a delicious breakfast of overnight oats and toast; the perfect way to start the day. Once Skipper Luke had briefed us on our route for the day, we were assigned our starting roles; those of us due to be on deck pushed off to clamber into our waterproofs, while the Emmas (science officer and first mate) dutifully washed up.
We made our way out of the Sound of Mull, accompanied by the omnipresent Caledonian MacBrayne, under an overcast sky...not the best weather for sunbathing, but better conditions for fin-spotting you will not find! Buoyed by the excellent visibility, we all kept a sharp eye peeled. Today began with birds aplenty, including some very fine puffin action, (NOT Puffinous puffinous which is, as I'm sure all you frightfully bright fellows will know, is a Manx shearwater!), flights of auks and even some low-flying gannets. Just fabulous. The best was yet to come on the avian front, however, but more on that later...
I was up on the mast undertaking my first watch of the day when our first real treat arrived. "Fin up, fin up! Sighting!" I called out, as a wee pod of short-beaked common dolphins charged in to join us; sallying forth, furlong after furlong, to greet us with splashes and leaps. Their stay was fleeting, but simply joyful. And then, in a twinkling, they had vanished into the deep blue.
By and by, we encountered a spot of weather and some mild sea, but our gracious host Silurian took it all firmly in her stride. At this juncture, I was lucky enough to locate the lesser-spotted Hebridean rock-whale (a rock formation that closely resembles a blowing or breaching whale, eliciting considerable - if misplaced - excitement!). Thereafter we made our way towards our evening anchorage in Bunessan and were welcomed in by the most stunning golden eagle, soaring above as if suspended by a great string held by the gods. What a welcome.
Thus began our first shore visit of this expedition; Ceara, Stephen, Claire, Ben and I mooched around onshore for an hour, taking in our stunning surroundings. Ceara and I took a peaceful meander to the community gardens, which we found most lamentably to be closed!
All in all, an absolutely marvellous day!
DAY 4
It's amazing how quickly one gets used to second breakfast, it was certainly eagerly awaited on deck! A couple of us had a bit of a wobble as we approached lunchtime and the sea got choppy, however some fresh air on deck at the helm soon sorted us out and we were able to enjoy a gorgeous mug of risotto for lunch.
The seas calmed for much of the afternoon making it another great day for spotting. We saw a minke whale in the morning to everyone's excitement and satisfaction. Later in the day, we picked up dolphins on the hydrophone and soon saw them from the mast as well! The survey day ended with a veritable flotilla of seals and much to my joy we encountered more as we headed into anchorage.
A quick shore exploration followed by curry and birthday cake was the perfect end to the day in Loch Talbret! I would extoll the wonders of the views but the day has left me knackered so I shall let the photos speak for themselves.
Hears to seeing what tomorrow brings!
DAY 5
We awoke on Day 5 in the most stunning, incredible anchorage, nestled deep in the heart of Jura; with the good ship Silurian sitting pretty in a mere ten centimetres of water...this was borne assiduously in mind when shovelling down our morning oats! Many of us were reluctant to leave this beautiful location, not least because during our evening ‘chart chat’ the night before, the skipper requested that we wake with the crows, so as to pass through the infamous Gulf of Corryvreckan, afore the whims of the mighty tumult deep rendered our passage impossible.
We got off to a cracking start with two seals periscoping within five minutes of our effort getting underway; supervising our exit from the loch. Fortunately, Luke and Emma's skilful hands upon the tiller passed this most important pinniped test - we were granted their seal of approval (I'm here all weeks, folks...), and went on our merry way.
The sea was up, and the cetaceans were down. Today passed with fewer sightings than hoped, but this did not stop us from making the most of our sensational surroundings. Jura loomed ever-present upon the horizon, like a kindly grandfather keeping a watchful, protective eye on us as we wound out the headsail and proceeded under wind power. We must remind the Skipper to lay off the baked beans.
Shortly before we entered the Gulf of Corryvreckan, we were treated to a couple of dear little harbour porpoise, popping their fins above the waterline for a split second. Our passage through the treacherous gulf went off without hitch, and before you could say "Where were all the whales?!" we were safe and sound at anchor in Crinan.
DAY 6
Although frustrating on the sightings front we had a cracking sail across to Iona.
Beautiful anchorage at Erraid. A white tailed eagle did a turn or two for us, lots of otter footprints on the white sands of the beach and Ben went for another dip in the sea at 9 degrees. Uno was played with noisy discussion as to which rules should be adhered to – hilarious.
DAY 7
Spring sailing
West of Iona
Treshnish through on way back
Out to Tiree sail sun
Ulva Little Colonsay
Common dolphins
Furry teeth
DAY 8
Us Brits love to talk to you about the weather, don't we? Well, sit back, relax and let me tell you about Storm Kathleen which separated us from our stunning resting place - between the islands of Gometra and Ulva - and home (well, Tobermory home of Silurian). We battened down our hatches, tightened our own draw strings and set off. The trepidation was evident, but there was no need, the excellent crew kept us safe, updated and stocked up with breakfast and brunch… just like being on an aircraft, when you see the crew still working during a rocky patch. The site of the galley in full swing as we travelled 14 minutes on one wave was a site of satisfaction, the waves crashed over the bow, our mast look outs fastened on tight as we sailed into the eye of the storm. As first mate Emma had very clearly stated, "today we will sail" and sail we did, as diligently as usual, no wave or white horse was left unturned, but even the marine mammals that we strive to record knew that the weather outside was not to their liking. Finally after a long day, our sea legs stiffened, we conceded defeat and headed back to dock for a well-earned rest, but no more so than our beautiful vessel the Silurian. She took the sea like a captain lifting a trophy...she really was made to sail, and sail she did. A wee dram toasted the end of our journey, another amazing meal by first mate and chef extraordinaire, Emma. The breeze was all but a distant memory; and like most memories of this amazing trip, they will be memories that are never forgotten.
Across the survey period, the group surveyed 523 km of Hebridean waters, recording five species of marine mammal - a great start to our Summer survey season.
A HUGE THANK YOU TO OUR TEAM OF CITIZEN SCIENTISTS WHO JOINED THIS EXPEDITION: ANDY, BEN, CAM, CEARA, CLAIRE AND STEVEN.