Seabirds, fin whales and Northern Lights delivered magic during the penultimate expedition of 2024
Seabirds, fin whales, a super-pod of common dolphins and a magical viewing of the Northern Lights kept smiles on our faces as Silurian, our research vessel, completed her penultimate survey of the season. Read more about how the team of citizen scientists got on below…
DAY 1
We left Mallaig at around midday after training from Emma on survey protocols and from Celia on safety on board. With a sea state of 1 and 0.5m swell, we headed off on a westerly transect towards Rum. With excellent visibility and calm seas, in the first hour of effort we had several sightings of harbour porpoise and a single minke whale. We came off transect with our first 'With Whale' diversion to try to get some ID photographs. This was the first whale seen by the crew for several weeks and was therefore really exciting for everyone. Unfortunately, the minke kept its distance despite our efforts and we returned to transect. After a quiet hour or so we were then treated to two sightings of small groups of common dolphins, one of which gave us a spectacular display, bow-riding for several minutes. The wind picked up as we rounded the southern end of Rum and crossed towards Eigg, with an increase in sea state to four. This made surveying more challenging and there were no further sightings before arriving at our anchor between the southern end of Eigg and Eilean Chathastail at dinner time. Crew and volunteers all agreed that this was an amazing first day with 23 harbour porpoise and corkscrewing common dolphins in beautiful weather.
DAY 2
Our first full day on the water and a sighting of a minke whale got us off to a fine start! Day two also brought along too many common dolphins to count!!
In the midst of the spectacularly brisk and sunny weather we sail along all day, we do our best to log sightings accurately, delighting in their diving & spinning, leaping & dancing under, around and with Silurian's bow. We discern and follow one grouping after another, leaping and spinning on the deck fore and aft, to capture their antics on cameras and phones. Traveling for a time "with dolphin", our Skipper guides us deftly into their midst for a superbly sustained amount of time. Eventually we come back to our senses and our mission, and return to our course northward along the west coast of Skye.
After the previous evening of patient and perceptive tutelage on boats and birds by our scientist sailor, we integrate these sightings into our log. The many birders among us come to the aid of the relative avian novices, enriching the experience for all, recording sightings of soaring, diving and float-forgaing shags, gannets, guillemots, kittiwakes, gulls and tysties.
And of course, none of this would have been possible without the many timely, yummy feedings throughout the day, made with what surely tasted like love, and delivered directly to us at our stations from our dedicated and culinarily expert crew, and superhuman sailing support!
DAY 3
Today we started off with a group of whooper swans flying over the boat while we were anchored at Loch Bay in Skye. We then documented many creeIs while leaving the bay. Once we were out in the open sea, we headed in nearly a straight line to Stornoway. The southerly swell increased to about 1.5m and caused huge rolling waves which made one of us a little seasick. Along the transect we saw a few harbour porpoise, three pods of common dolphins and a few grey seals; we were often greeted by the common dolphins bow riding; one of pods had a beautiful calf. We reached Stornoway at 17:30, to stowaway from the incoming storm on Friday. Some of us wandered around the town and visited the castle, while others stocked up on some snacks and many enjoyed a warm shower on land. We turned in early, after a lovely tomato pasta dish prepared by Bernard and Carole, just the thing to warm us after a stormy day!
DAY 4
Today was a day of wind and rain so we were off survey with the Silurian tied up safely in Stornoway harbour. Having made contact with the Tiumpan Head WDC Shorewatch group, four of us decided to catch a bus to Tiumpan Head lighthouse to join Katie Dyke from WDC and three of the regular Shorewatchers. Although not the best day for Shorewatching at this amazing site, it was good to meet for a catch up and to watch the extremely choppy sea from our position huddled against a low wall. Unsurprisingly no fins were seen although we saw three Manx shearwaters and lots of gannets and kittiwakes.
Eleanor and Annelise chose the warm and dry option and stayed in Stornoway. They went shopping (Annelise purchased a gorgeous, knitted jumper covered in sheep, some of which were dancing) and visited the Arts Centre where they watched two films (The Spirit of Place and Foscad), part of the Hebridean International Film Festival.
Emma spent her afternoon at the gym and the sauna and our skipper, Celia, visited the chandlery where she purchased various useful items for the boat and heard from the local fishers how the sea temperature at 40m depth has been much warmer over the last four weeks, coinciding with increased sightings of dolphins. Erna and Zoë both spent time exploring Stornoway; Erna took lots of photographs and bought presents for family and friends and Zoë was pleased to find her recently published book for sale in the bookshop. We all returned to the Silurian for a curry made by Erna and Mary Ann and to hear tomorrow's plans from Celia.
DAY 5
Anticipating another day of wind and rain, Skipper Celia had alerted us to be ready for an early start. And an early start it was, 7am breakfast of yummy apples and oats, out of the peaceful harbour with some fancy manoeuvring by the crew, and into wind, waves, and rain. As promised, the salopettes kept us warmish and dryish all day, while our culinarily expert crew kept us hydrated and well fed through it all, with veggie baps for second breakfast, a scrumptious lunch with pasta, chicken peas and squash in aluminium mugs, and intermittent well appreciated hydration.
Meanwhile, out on the water, we were blessed being able to go "with whale" following the course set by a minke whale for 10 minutes, despite the wind, rain and waves tossing us about atop our trusty vessel (not to mention a few flying objects below). If we hadn't fully appreciated the directive to stay clipped in as we moved about the deck before today, we do now! We came across several groups of common dolphins, a few porpoises and seals, and a wide variety of seabirds, including razorbills, and many a kittiwake, an especially positive sign as their numbers have declining of late.
Gratefully, the course set by our Skipper brought us north and east back to the mainland, through calmer waters protected from the highest of the wind by land as we approached, giving time for us to dry out a bit, completing our 41 nautical miles by 15:30. Plenty of time to explore the shore before dinner. The name of the place? Badcall; we beg to differ, as we found our Skipper's choice a fine call!
DAY 6
Another early start! Breakfast was ready just as the dawn began to break treating us to beautiful pink cracks of sunlight sneaking through the clouds. We were reminded of the saying red sky at night sailor's delight, red sky in the morning sailor's warning – a foreboding sign perhaps?
During breakfast we discussed the day’s journey, our Skipper informed us that a hurricane due to hit Spain would be responsible for the stormy weather heading straight for the Hebrides! Fortunately, the north-east corner that we have sailed to was not only a good refuge for the night, but also the calmest place to be.
Again, we headed out of the anchorage into the big Minch. The common dolphins did not disappoint and came to greet us soon after our departure, riding the bow!
As we headed further into the Minch, the swell increased to 2 meters! Though fortunately this was also a long swell, so we rose and fell gradually. This you will find can be quite a relaxing experience if you aren't feeling queasy. When you are stood on lookout duty on the mast it feels like you are surfing, trying to keep your balance as the next swell slowly heads towards you.
Throughout the day we had four encounters with minke whales! Once a minke is sighted the boat leaves her transect and goes 'with whale'. Each of us takes a position around the boat, making sure that all angles are covered for its resurface. During this time the boat goes eerily quiet, all you can hear is the whir of the boat’s engine and the higher pitched creaking of the sail. All is quiet and still, but there is a feeling of excitement, tension and anticipation – knowing that something is out there, hoping it will reappear.
These elusive creatures managed to disappear completely after being spotted, possibly managing to hide between the hill-like swells rising up. We all managed to see them at one point during the day, but the photographers amongst us were not so fortunate.
During one of these exciting encounters, we saw a Sooty Shearwater! This was definitely a first for me. It was just as exciting as seeing a minke - I am afraid that's just the birder in me talking! We also had our first fulmars! These beautiful creatures glided along beside our boat coming extremely close at times, possibly using the updraft created by our boat to effortlessly fly alongside us. Storm petrels were also seen throughout the day, another amazing seabird!
A gannet caused a great surprise when it crashed into the side of the boat! After an enthusiastic flyby it stunned itself on the hull. Fortunately, it seemed only a little perturbed by these events and righted itself in the water. Interestingly this bird had black eyes, so is probably a bird flu survivor. You go gannet!
Finally, we ended the day arriving in Loch an Eisg-Brachaidh finishing with a lovely supper and a dessert made from Eigg apples!
DAY 7
We had another early start this morning with a long day planned to head out westwards into the Minch to survey some deep water before heading south to find a sheltered anchorage in Loch Torridon.
Unfortunately, Skipper Celia noticed that the boat engine was overheating when we were only 10 minutes into the first transect so we took the safe option and turned around and made our way at slow speed into Lochinver harbour, tying up on the pontoon. Whilst the crew investigated the cause of the problem we went into the town in search of showers, food and whatever else was on offer. Sadly, the famous pie shop was closed as were all four cafes because it was Monday, but the book shop was open, so some people bought a book, and coffee was available from a machine in the Spar. Initially excited by the Screen Machine parked up in a layby, our hopes were dashed as the cinema wasn't showing until tomorrow.
Meanwhile, the crew had potentially fixed the engine problem having located and removed some seaweed from the cooling system, so we all returned hopefully to the Silurian, headed out into the loch and began the transect again. Sadly, our hopes were dashed again with the engine continuing to overheat and we had to return again to Lochinver. More showers, more walks to the bookshop (and money spent) and more coffee.
With the bad weather still chasing us from the north our skipper spent most of the afternoon in the engine room replacing a component in the cooling system and flushing the water through to remove more seaweed. By 7pm the engine started and it looked like we were in business again.
In the background the cooks for the day had produced a particularly lovely meal with roast potatoes so we ended the day in good spirits. In fact, the day had not quite ended because a beautiful aurora appeared not long after we had gone to bed, with shouts to come out on desk we went up to view and photograph; bright green columns and a patch of pink.
DAY 8
The aurora continued intermittently almost until dawn, then the overcast clouds took its place throughout this day, allowing bits of sun to filter through, bringing rain rays and god rays, but nary a drop of rain where we sailed. Quite a surprise the weather, as we were anticipating a much colder, wet and stormy day. At points there was a good bit of sun shining down on us, brightening spirits and reflecting off the sea. Evidence of rain in the vicinity was present in the form of two faint and gentle rainbows in the morning hours. Many a sea bird floated and flew around and about us all day, with just a few other vessels in our vicinity.
We got an early start, hoping to make up for time we'd lost the previous day. We sped along our course south and eastward, assisted by wind and tide. The result was high rolling waves, which tested our balance as well as our visual acuity, as some of what might be whitecaps might just be evidence of the sea mammals we seek. And indeed, even with rollers sometimes up to three meters, citizen scientist Carole spotted one, and then another blow! All eyes on the sea, we were able to detect not one, but two fin whales, the second largest animal on the planet! Helmsperson Zoë guided the boat "with whale" expertly. As Silurian tracked them, we scrambled around on the deck, diving into the cabin to fetch cameras, then improvising safe, stable perches from which to snap photos and video, emitting many an "ooo" and "aaahh" and an excited variety of other expletives of surprise and delight. Our status as a research vessel allowed us to follow them to collect data; we stayed with them for 30 minutes, and we revelled in every second of it; their blows, followed by the slow steady lift of their bodies above the surface of the water, followed by the appearance of their dorsal fin, before they slowly lowered themselves beneath the waves. We found the whales in a channel, with a depth of about 100 meters, only a fraction of the depth of one to four kilometres where they are usually found. On our final glimpse, they swam quite closely alongside us, rather like the dolphins we’d seen on previous days.
Back on course, we sped along once again with our obedient engine to our anchorage at Loch Reraig, an impressive fifty-seven nautical miles. A lovely tranquil place it is, replete with autumn colours and impressive rocky cliffs, as well as a few gently sloping beaches. We relived the delight of the day reviewing photos by our scientist Emma and versatile crew member Dylan, noting definitive details of the fin whale in the photos, breathing in relaxation after a long and exciting day on the water, salivating in anticipation with the scents of colcannon expertly prepared by Eleanor and Annalise.
DAY 9
Today began with a more relaxed start with everyone getting up for a later breakfast at eight o'clock. Once we had finished getting ready and the boat was underway, we got into our starting positions.
While leaving the anchorage, Emma went up in the crow’s nest! She called "On Effort" from up there and we got started! She got some brilliant photos of the surrounding area as well as some nice photos of the volunteers and crew on deck. Unfortunately, after leaving the shelter of Loch Reraig, she had to come back down, because the wind picked up and it was too dangerous for her to be up so high. It was her first time in the crow’s nest this season, so that was exciting.
While leaving Loch Reraig, we had a difficult time deciphering which creels were connected to each other, as we had many creels recorded over a short period of time (we saw 266 creel over the trip!). We also spotted some harbour seals in the choppy water. The sea state went up to 5 which, along with the scattered glare that made the whole sea hazy, made it a bit difficult to spot much.
However, as we sailed through the inner sound, we were escorted by a pod of very enthusiastic common dolphins! They joined us for part of our journey, riding the bow. Some even leaped out of the water completely. A thrilling site to see especially with a rainbow and the Isle of Skye in the background.
Fortunately, the swell wasn't as bad as previous days, but the East/North-Easterly wind was freezing! Blowing us west toward Skye, we moved along steadily at 6 knots, with the sails flapping around a bit.
Going under the Skye bridge was a lovely experience. The houses along the bank and the lighthouse by the bridge is quite picturesque. We anchored at Sandaig, our shelter spot to avoid the force 8 winds predicted.
We went on a shore visit to Sandaig, the place where 'Ring of Bright Water' was written. The dinghy journey over to the mainland was a bumpy ride! We took a lot of sea spray to the face, but the chance to explore this remote location wasn't passed up! There were lovely birch and native woodlands to explore, and ripe brambles to munch on. Carole and Bernard picked up some litter from the beach which was very good of them. Breaking our peaceful retreat on land, two typhoons flew over! The sound of the engines followed behind and created a deafening roar. They were practicing manoeuvres around the cliffs and straits of the sea.
We have had various potato sides with our meals for the last 3 days, and it has been glorious. It's one of the staple vegetables we have left, so most of the evening dishes and second breakfast today contained potatoes
We finished off the evening with a lovely documentary about the whaling industry in Scotland, and what the numbers could indicate about natural whale numbers. We went to bed early, so that we could be ready for our last day.
DAY 10
This was the final day of the trip, so we planned to get going at the 'normal' time (we’ve been making the most of the weather with lots of early mornings!) and survey around the Small lsles for around five hours before returning to Mallaig.
The conditions for sighting cetaceans were perfect, with no wind and virtually no swell. This also meant perfect conditions for climbing up the mast to the crow's nest! Only the Scientific Officer, Emma had been up there so far (yesterday), but it was now the turn for us volunteers to have a go, for those who were keen. First up (literally) was Mary-Ann who made it look easy and showed us the required footholds, slithering easily over the rails and into the crow's nest. A hesitant Bernard was second up - and sighted a Minke from up high - followed by Annelise. An increase in sea state left the crow's nest empty whilst we followed a transect line out between Eigg and Rum.
This proved to be productive as we encountered a quite large, but spread out, group of common dolphins which stayed distant to the boat apart from five or so individuals which broke off and headed towards us riding our bow wave for a while.
Having changed transect back towards Mallaig, the sea state calmed and Dylan eagerly headed up the crow's nest. A minke was soon called by Annelise on mast right and we were off 'With Whale' whilst Dylan was left up the crow's nest, temporarily forgotten whilst we concentrated on locating the minke. Good views of two minkes in the midst of a feeding frenzy of gannets and kittiwakes was a lovely finale to the trip followed by a few harbour porpoise on our way back to Mallaig.
On arrival back in Mallaig, a thorough cleaning of the Silurian was followed by a slick illustrated presentation by Emma detailing our 9-day trip. Not wishing to dirty our clean galley we headed out for a fish and chip supper followed by more silly games back at the Silurian.
Across the week, the group surveyed nautical 653 km of Hebridean seas, recording six species of marine mammals.
A HUGE THANK YOU TO OUR TEAM OF CITIZEN SCIENTISTS WHO JOINED THIS EXPEDITION: ANNELISE, BERNARD, CAROLE, ELEANOR, ERNA & MARYANN.
