Dolphins galore on sixteenth survey of the year!
The crew of our sixteenth research expedition surveyed the Minch and sound of rasaay, encountering four species of cetacean in their week-long trip. unfortunately, The trip was cut short due to a mechanical issue but not before the team were inundated with dolphins! Read all about their time on board Silurian here…
DAY 1
The volunteer team was welcomed onto Silurian for the 16th survey of the 2023 season. The crew for this survey is made up of Emma (skipper), Jake (1st mate), Jenny (science officer) and Freya (4th crew). The volunteers on board this week are Jennie, Zsuzsanna, Hannah, Tyra, John and Nick. After introductions, a delicious dinner made by Emma and an informative lesson by Jenny, the team settled into their bunks eager to start the adventure the next morning.
DAY 2
The first proper day of work consisted primarily of balance. Balancing tasks, time, and our bodies as we adapted to life offshore. Whilst we were warned that the survey would be hard work, the difficulty (and joy) is actually in the act of familiarising one's self with an entirely new and strange reality. The berths, the swell, the limits, the moving in transverse lines at 6 knots exactly. Life becomes contained, discrete, incredibly directional and quite lovely.
Curving around the headland, Silurian made steady progress, despite the south-westernly winds and white capped waves. We saw gannets, gulls, porpoises, and even the inside of a small pub. The seas were unpredictable but we carried on, task after task, sighting after sighting. Whilst we started off as strangers, by the end of the day we had achieved a kind of improvisational rhythm...responding to each other and our surroundings . We were part machine, part earnest (if sometimes clumsy) choreography, knowing when to move from mast to relay to the data room.
Over dinner, it became clear that all of us were on board with intention and purpose, driven by a desire to better appreciate the extraordinarily creatures which we had the luck to glimpse earlier in the day.
DAY 3
Early start. Awake before the break of dawn to rain and howling wind. The foul weather made the warm porridge taste magical. A warm belly on a cold cold morning. We all changed into waterproofs and wellies, slowly perfecting our morning ritual (though the single bathroom still poses some issues). We made progress north through the Sound of Sleat, accompanied by gannets and Guillemots. We were occasionally warmed by patches of sun through overcast skies. Creels were spotted frequently. Warnings about submarines rang out over the radio and the ship maneuvered with the military in mind.
We diverted our course in the Sound of Rasaay following instruction from Hebridean Range control and removed the hydrophone before entering the range. At the northern end of the Sound we encountered our first common dolphins of the survey! Then more… then even more! Over 100 were recorded in one of the groups, repeatedly flying in to our bow to investigate us.
We headed in to our anchorage for the night in Staffin Island on the Isle of Skye where we enjoyed our first game of pass the pigs and delicious handmade gnocci.
DAY 4
Totally awesome start to our day. Breakfast at 6.30 with a sunrise over Skye photographers would kill for. After the usual excellent breakfast, on setting off we soon encountered a pod of common dolphins who spent at least 30 minutes bowriding with us. Lots of seabirds on their way out for the day and a few porpoise in case we got bored. Not too many creels today, though more trawlers in the Loch we entered Diubag.
Weather much better than we feared so a good day of surveying. Now anchoring in a beautiful mooring site in North Skye. We prepared our pub quiz questions and enjoyed some well-earned down time before dinner and on deck rain-showers, complete with swimmers and shampoo!
DAY 5
A night of very strong wind and persistent rain made for a cosy sleep with the knowledge of a lie in and a late start.
The morning brought dryer weather and french toast with gently sauted blueberries and a pinch of cinnamon.
A break in the weather meant today we could cross the Minch. So anchor lifted we set off around 11ish and headed out of the bay towards the Isle of Harris.
The sea was choppy but calmed down quickly after the 12 hour blast we had experienced all night. The Minch brought us lots of bird sightings amongst them a couple of puffins, and, to Jenny’s delight - storm petrels. Cetacean sightings started and ended with porpoise and common dolphins coming and going all day riding the bow wave and doing all their dolphin stuff.
We slipped in to Tarbet at 17.00 moored up and waiting for the next weather front to hit us with relentless rain to come. Scotland at its best!
DAY 6
With the big storm coming through, Silurian stayed moored safely in Tarbet for the day. Thankfully for our exploring volunteers, the strong winds brought sunshine and blue skies - perfect weather for exploring the Isle of Harris. A few of us (Freya, Zsuzsannah, Jennie, Hannah and Tyra) took a bus out to Luskentyre. The views were absolutely stunning and it left many a smile on our faces - that, and the Cake Shed of course. Upon returning to Silurian, the team set off around 16:00 to Scalpay, where we would be more protected from the swell and the wind that was increasing over night. The team tucked in for a lovely night playing some pub quiz games and attempted to stream the Scotland v. Ireland Rugby match.
DAY 7
Adventure Day!
All started off quietly and with no hint of the events to come. The sea was flat with the usual fresh to strong wind 'gently' rocking the boat. Breakfast at 7.30 and then back on data collection. The persitant drizzle found all ways into any jacket opening and zip closures. A steady stream flowed into your eyes as you peered into the glom looking for things to spot.
Puffins, seals, all manner of sea birds and then came the dolphins in small groups at first and then larger numbers. The Shant Islands appeared out of the mist as strange giant forms standing stock still in the water, gannets gliding around the dark rock.
So it kept going, the drizzle, the wildlife, the rolling sea until John spotted a different fin shape above the waves. 'Sighting!' Great excitement, everyone scrabbled on deck to see White Beaked Dolphins about 8-10 just 'chilling'. We stayed with them for ages........and turned the engine off to get some acoustic recording. Beautiful. They moved off. So, engine back on and off we go again, only the engine didn't restart.....
And then it didn't restart again. In fact it really wasnt going to start despite all manner of expert techniques. It was in fact broken.
Luckily we were not far from Stornoway. Luckily the wind had dropped and luckily a nice Norweigein boat from Trondheim was not far away and came over to assist.
Silurian sat in the water, elegantly, as if nothing had happened and being towed into harbour was a very normal thing to do.
So there we were one big adventure day and falling asleep to the haunting sound of howling seals under the pier.
DAY 8
As we awaited repairs for the engine, the volunteers had an exciting day exploring Stornoway and the Isle of Lewis. The morning was spent exploring the area around Stornoway. The weather was stunning today - the sun and blue skies highlighted the fall colours that have begun springing up in the trees around town. Some of us walked around the Lews castle grounds, while others explored the cafés in town. In the afternoon, Jenny, Zsuzsannah, John, Nick, Hannah and Tyra took a bus to the stones of Callanish. The weather was perfect for exploring the three stone sites and for a tea at the Callanish visitor centre. In the evening, the crew enjoyed a beautiful cheese platter put together by Jenny H, a delicious cottage pie by Emma and a tasty crumble by Jake. We finished the night playing pub quiz games - Jenny A's round sent us frantically counting tea flavours in the cupboard and Freya's round sent us dashing (safely ;) ) around the boat looking for lettre clues. The evening was spent laughing and enjoying the company of our little family that has formed over the past 8 days. Unfortunately due to mechinical issues, this is the last night of HWDT 16. We are so thankful to the crew (Emma, Jake, Jenny and Freya) for all that they have done for us to make this week an incredible and memorable experience.
Across 6 days, the group surveyed 160 miles of Hebridean waters encountering 6 species of marine mammals.
