Lunge-feeding minke whales wow the team during twelfth expedition
The crew of our twelfth research expedition of 2023 left TObermory and circumnavigated the Isles of barra and skye. The fantastic team of citizen scientists who joined on board encountered nine species of marine animal across twelve days. Read all about their experiences…
DAY 1
The team were welcomed on to Silurian, their home for the next week. After a delicious Bolognese by Bruce, we learned about species ID with Jenny - covering the eight most commonly sighted cetacean (the collective for whale, dolphin and porpoise) species in the Hebrides.
DAY 2
More training from Jenny and the crew - this time the survey protocols and how to identify the sounds at the acoustic listening station below deck. We learned that the data from 20 years of Silurian surveys is used to designate marine protected areas and aids conservation of marine mammals in the Hebrides.
We set off in the sunshine towards Coll and encountered a basking shark within the first hour. It cruised past the boat as the crew took identification photos of the dorsal fins.
We continued on our transect and were met by two more groups of active common dolphins on the way in to our anchorage at Coll. We learned about seabird species and boats to be recorded before some sunset yoga and a chilled evening.
DAY 3
We awakened to a beautiful, bright sunny morning in Loch Breachacha, Coll. A wee bit too bright, too soon. Lovely early morning quiet time, knitting on deck for me then the hearty Silurian breakfast while skipper, Alan, pawed over the charts. The weather still good for heading for Pabbay. A good omen for the day as a red throated diver was spotted by Jenny in the bay.
So off we set through Gunna Sound, the day somewhat duller, but only in weather. As promised, hundreds of shags to count, along with reporting of multiple creels. No basking sharks seen and off we set for the Outer Hebrides. Bacon rolls were served by first mate, Bruce, before any major sightings (the odd seal, common dolphin and porpoise- but by now we were used to these), then suddenly the major excitement of white-beaked dolphins (my first encounter) - how beautiful! A lovely display. Only to be matched by the friendly minke whale coming along side and popping up several more than its regulation three times. How big are they?
Back to our jobs - how exciting is a computer job with the squeaking of dolphins nearby - yet more common dolphins along side.
A fantastic selection of seabirds to watch and we were soon in Bàgh Bàn on Pabbay, sheltered from the slight northerly wind.
Too beautiful a bay not to swim in, and I sense a fantastic dinner to come - did I forget the wonderful skipper Alan’s leek and potato soup. A fantastic day. What will tomorrow bring?
DAY 4
We left Pabbay in moody light surrounded by shags and fulmars as we sailed west in to the Atlantic - the west side of the Outer Hebrides.
The conditions calmed and the sun came out. We saw SO many fulmars and storm petrels gliding across the glassy water. Then in the distance, leaping dolphins again - we sailed over to confirm that they were a large group of feeding common dolphins.
As we headed east in to the Sound of Barra and towards our anchorage at Eriskay, we were met my the Barra Boys. The famous bottlenose dolphins that we had heard about in training. The boisterous dolphins put on a show and bow rode all the way in to our anchorage, for over an hour in the warm sunshine.
Once the dolphins had left, we enjoyed a beautiful swim around the boat before a shore visit to the famous Am Politician. Hannah treated us and the rest of the pub to her fiddle tunes in front of a magical west coast sunset.
DAY 5
Another day in paradise? We thought so, but skipper Alan introduced us to the plan for the day with warnings of an impending unpleasantly strong south-easterly winds and a need to make for more sheltered waters. We headed gingerly out of the shallow sands of the Sound of Barra and headed past the ruins of Castle Reubadair back into the Sea of the Hebrides intending to head north. Someone noticed an unfamiliar shape on top of the ruin that proved to be our first white tailed eagle of the trip. It eyed us unconcerned as we turned north on our first transect of the day.
So commenced our days progress north towards Skye. Despite the perfect sunny day, with only few scattered clouds and glorious views of countless islands and mountains into the far distance, we had to keep on task. It was easy to let the mind and the conversation wander as not only were there no early sightings there were also fewer birds to report as we moved further out into deep water.
We were temporarily brought to attention when someone shouted "sighting" having seen some big splashes way behind us. Before one splash he reported what he thought was a whale shape come clean out of the water. So a possible minke breaching - our first sighting of the day.
Heading into the Little Minch, wildlife activity increased with sightings of puffins scampering away from the boat together with a couple of little auks seen by one of us. Conditions remained perfect and we were finally rewarded with an explosion of activity on all sides of Silurian with splashing groups of common dolphins coming and going in all directions together with spectacular diving gannets. It was nearly impossible to count them all but we finally agreed on an almost unbelievable 258!
The beautiful day was coming to an end, with the wind freshening, we able to have a brief spell under sail as we drew close to our chosen anchorage for the night in Loch Bay off north-west Skye. Perhaps not the most imaginative name in the Hebrides, but it was more than good enough providing shelter from the forecast winds to come and a lovely spot to take a swim to end another day in paradise!
DAY 6
We left Loch Bay at 8:30am after hearty yellow 'overnight oats' made by Jenny. We headed north-west out of the bay in the sunshine, around Waternish Point and then took bearing between Eilean Trodday and Comet Rock, heading east towards Loch Gairloch. We anchored in Loch Kerry - a beautiful setting with the Torridon hills in the background. It was a beautiful day, sun all day and very calm at times. We spotted 2 porpoise, 90 common dolphin (in 7 groups), 4 common seals (2 dead), 6 grey seals and an amazing 10 minke whales (including a baby 6 miles west of Loch Gairloch). A mass of circling gannets and kittiwakes were spotted leading us to the minke feeding, we smelt the stinky minke and saw them lunge feeding...a fantastic half hour was spent 'with whale' and many photos were taken.
DAY 7
After a noisy night at anchor, thanks to Storm Bessie, we had a slightly later start than usual, intending to investigate Loch Torridon. The blustery weather continued, making it more difficult for sightings. We spotted two groups of common dolphins but neither stayed around for very long. As the weather turned again, we came off effort earlier than originally planned, anchoring in Loch Torridon (at Arinacrinachd) to enjoy the horizontal rain.
DAY 8
All seasons in one day? The day began with some dramatic looking clouds overhead, but these were quickly blown away by the strong gales blowing from the south. If you were standing at the bow you may have been splashed by the salty sea water, fortunately the oil skins kept us all warm and dry.
After a hearty breakfast, as usual on the Silurian, we made our way back up Loch Torridon heading toward the Isle of Skye bridge. Although there were no sightings this morning we were still working hard to untangle which creel match which through our binoculars.
This afternoon, we made our way beneath the Isle of Skye bridge and then we sailed down Loch Alsh were we saw a couple of common dolphins and later had a gorgeous view of Eilean Donan Castle. This was much calmer and the sun came out lighting up the dramatic sky line that surrounded us.
Just as the day of sighting duty was coming to an end we were treated to some harbour porpoises!
We anchored at Loch Duich and on arrival were lucky to eat a lovely slice of lemon drizzle cake baked by Jenny!
DAY 9
Allan had chosen our anchorage well, Silurian had a very settled night protected from the disturbed weather surrounding us. Early risers watching the herons fishing on the shoreline were treated to the site of an osprey circulating high above which then plunged successfully into the water rising with a substantial catch only to be mobbed by a great black-backed gull. We were pleased to see the osprey had the better of the encounter and make off with it's breakfast.
Soon under way we were joined briefly by a couple of porpoises breaking surface as we made our way up an unexpectedly quiet Loch Duich. As our eyes were drawn to Eilean Donan Castle, we were called to a sighting of our first definite otter of the trip on the opposite shore.
We aimed to meet the Kylerhea tidal rapids at slack water. Allan's timing was perfection but some of us were just a little disappointed that we'd missed a chance for a more exciting ride!
Observations were becoming more challenging with the freshening winds funnelling up the Sound of Sleat, kicking up an increasing short chop. All of a sudden a pod of common dolphins was sighted off the starboard bow, racing towards Silurian with their young ones to play around the boat for a while. This group of 25 was shortly followed by a separate, more sedate, smaller group of 8.
Winds continued to freshen, the spray coming over the bow complemented by, at first, just intermittent light showers that were as we progressed becoming increasingly persistent. As we made our way south, moving into more open water and with steeper waves and more spray, effective surveying was proving more and more challenging.
The inevitable decision was taken, we needed to run for shelter. We headed for the safety of Loch Nevis looking for a safe spot to put down an anchor on the north side. We ended our day early, parked up beside Cameron Mackintosh's highland retreat in the shelter of Tarbert Bay.
DAY 10
A calm start in the shelter of Tarbert Bay with several other boats and before breakfast an early spot of a white tailed eagle and a pod of common dolphins to ease us back into the survey work.
Out into Loch Nevis and the slightly windier lumpier sea, common dolphins were leaping while Alan spotted a blue whale…on shore. Moby Dick the Atlantic crossing vessel! Once out into the south end of Sound of Sleat, the inevitable southerly wind made its presence known. Not a big swell but quite a choppy sea with dreich-ness made spotting trickier but a day 10 well oiled (not with alcohol) team were onto several common dolphins who swam along beautifully for some time. Always a pleasure. Then from the helm came the minke spot. 3 beasts feeding. On we ploughed with the islands hiding beneath a low cloud. A change of course delivered a delightful roll, sending a mast surveyor to ground. A casualty of the lurking respiratory infection mingling amongst us. A few porpoises, common seal and grey seal and many boats and we got round Ardnamurchan Point. Skipper Alan's mood lightened considerably. Its hard to appreciate the responsibility he has for all of us, Silurian and the science. The promised rain came down, and a glimpse of the sun confirmed the forecast of scattered sunshine and showers - next time go easy on the showers please.
I appeared out of the science hole to find a rib carrying a film crew following us. More importantly they had wine for us (am I allowed to say that?) but had to follow us into Loch Sunart, to the beautiful, sheltered Loch na Droma Buidhe.
Another successful day with delicious banana cake at teatime and a wonderful Thai curry to ease down the wine.
Some powerful Moroccan herbal tea/potion was supplied to ease the sneezing and more importantly, I finished knitting the patterned sock!
DAY 11
We left the calm and beautiful Loch Sunart early to complete our final morning of surveying. We headed out towards Calliach Point, the north west tip of Mull, spotting porpoises, grey seals and many more vessels than we had seen in recent days. The crew enjoyed the final second breakfast of the trip and came off effort as we rounded Rubh nan Gael lighthouse on the way in to Tobermory.
We spent a couple of hours making Silurian ship shape and enjoyed a meal together. Alan performed an original poem, summarising the trip and rounding it off in a wonderful way.
Across 12 days, the group surveyed 370 miles of Hebridean waters encountering 9 species of marine megafauna.
