Fourth survey encounters basking sharks and minke whales!

our fourth research expedition of 2023 left tobermory for a twelve-day survey monitoring the waters off the west coast of scotland on board silurian - our research vessel. the team crossed the minch twice, encountering five species of marine mammal and basking sharks. the volunteer team on board recount their expedition…

DAY 1

After meeting at the top of the pontoons, we joined Silurian, met the team and unpacked in to our cabins. We moved to the mooring and learned about the species we hoped to record on our survey; minke whales, common dolphins and killer whales! We shared a delicious curry and headed to bed, excited for the first day of sailing.

DAY 2

The first day of sailing on HWDT4 and a soft, grey morning after the night’s rain. We spent the morning being introduced to survey protocols, safety procedures, issuing and fitting of gear and training in sighting and distance estimation. Left Tobermory for the Isle of Muck around midday in bright breezy weather, which deteriorated into a moody swell and lumpy seas. Despite the conditions, we spotted common dolphins, a large minke whale and a variety of sea birds. It was a relief to reach the peaceful calm of Gallanach Bay where we anchored, observed by large group of common seals hauled out on the beach. The evening involved more training in seabird identification, which was put to the test the following day!

DAY 3

We left Muck to cross the Minch to Vatersay. Overcast but no rain and slightly calmer swell than yesterday! Lot of seabirds about early on and sighted a bonxie and lots of Manx shearwaters followed by good sightings of a couple of minke whales among a large group of feeding birds. Also spotted common dolphins and numerous Porpoise amongst the diving ganets. As we came to moor off  Vatersay beach we saw a lot of gannets diving, again. The weather was now glorious and we set off to the beach on the dinghy. This was followed by all the brave ladies and Dave swimming in the surf. After the swim we discovered a dead minke on the rocks on the beach. Home for bangers and mash on a beautiful evening to watch the sun go down.

DAY 4
A beautiful, still, sunny morning in Vatersay after a restful night in a gorgeous setting. An otter swimming near the boat was the first thing we saw when we ventured out on deck. We made the short crossing to Barra to RV with a couple of volunteers who unfortunately had to leave us due to health issues. As a result it was a slow start for the science, but we were back on effort by around 1330. What an amazing crossing to Bernaray (the southern tip of the Outer Hebrides)! 8 Minkes, several pods of common dolphins that swam with us and bow rode for quite some time, 5 basking sharks, several seals and numerous sea birds. We moored in the Sound of Bernaray and watched Gannets diving while we drank post-effort tea. Amazing day! We trecked up to the lighthouse before dinner to see the hundreds of thousands of seabirds that call Berneray home during the breeding season. Vaughan even spotted two corncrakes amongst the reeds.

DAY 5

As sun dawned on a beautiful anchorage at Bernaray, the sound of Corncrake echoed across the yellow and green hillside and through the saloon windows, breakfast was another chance to watch the Gannets diving into the water, like bright white arrows whilst recovering from the magnificent intensity of the previous day. We left anchor and headed around the island towards a vibrant and bustling seabird colony, which was awash with Kittiwakes, Gannets, Razorbills, Common and Black Guillemots, Puffins and thousands of Fulmars. The Great Skuas were heavily outnumbered, but had ample opportunity to show off some kleptoparasitism on the route round. The top of the hillside by the lighthouse was keenly patrolled by a White Tailed Eagle, who would have her pick of the seabirds below. On route to South Uist, we encountered a familiar Basking Shark that had a heavily scarred fin, as seen the previous day. In the distance arose a large Minke Whale and as we moved closer a second emerged from the soupy seascape. The rest of the journey was windy, but it gave an opportunity to feel a sense of flight whilst stood on the mast. We arrived at Lochboisdale in South Uist and were delighted to have a chance to hop ashore and grab a shower and some Wifi!

DAY 6

We departed from the marina in Lochboisdale, South Uist heading east out the bay before altering course north along the Little Minch making our way towards The Shaints. There wasn't much activity on our journey north until we were joined by a small pod of 6 common dolphins for several minutes and they we came across a lone harbour porpoise. It was a steady force 3 with little motion and stayed dry most of the day. As we approached the Shaints we started to encounter more and more seabirds before reaching our anchorage in the bay where we were greeted by six white-tailed eagles and thousands of auks – amazing!

DAY 7

Following the very long day, we had a later start and went ashore at the Shiant Isles this morning and had a thoroughly enjoyable couple of hours exploring the island. There were an abundance of seabirds and 4 white tailed eagles to be enjoyed along with the views. We left at 11 and had mixed weather (although mostly dry with some sun) and encountered lots of seabirds and some seals and a porpoise. Arrived at near to Cheese Bay on North Uist at 17:30.

DAY 8

We headed south, across the Little Minch to the Isle of Soay. We even managed a few miles under sail, with great skuas circling the boat around Neist Point. We encountered two groups of common dolphins as we came north of the Small Isles, south of Skye. The views of the cuilins in the sunshine were breathtaking. We got to put our creeling knowledge to the test as we paired the many creels in the area on approach to our anchorage. Once anchored off Soay, we headed ashore to go and investigate the old basking shark fishery and search for the golden eagles that had been spotted from the boat.

DAY 9

We set sail from Soay towards the Small Isles, heading west around the North Coast of Canna. We rounded Canna in choppy, windy conditions and north up the sound of Canna, then east along the north coast of Rum. We crossed the sound of Rum (wild and windy) to Eigg and headed south to anchor off Eigg pier. Common dolphins and grey seals were spotted, but otherwise a quiet day for sightings. We tucked in to fresh banana-bread and a cup of tea before heading ashore in dribs and drabs to visit the pub and shower! 

DAY 10

We lifted the anchor in driech conditions and headed south towards Ardnamurchan Lighthouse in zig zags across the large swell. We were battered by sea and the swell picking up, but continued in hard spotting conditions. We were rewarded by two minke whales surfing in the large waves and a huge aggregation of 12 porpoises that were porpoising above the swell. Then Skipper, Celia, shouted! A breaching minke whale only 150m abeam of us. We turned around to run from the worsening conditions and anchored in the Singing Sands at Kentra. We all went for a walk on the beautiful beach, some for a swim, and a delicious haggis dinner for our last meal.

DAY 11

We again, headed south towards our final destination, in much calmer conditions around Ardnamurchan Point. As we entered the sound of Mull we encountered two minke whales close in to the shore. It was finally calm enough to allow people up the mast. Dave climbed in to the crows nest for the final approach in to Tobermory.

Across 12 days, the group surveyed 724 km of the Hebridean waters encountering 5 different species of marine mammals, plus basking sharks and recording 70 hours of acoustic recordings.

A big thank you to volunteers Louise, Simon, Graham, Joy, Katie, Dave and David. Your incredible efforts have helped contribute towards the monitoring and protection of marine mammals within the Hebrides.

THANKS ALSO TO NATURESCOT FOR SUPPORTING THE DATA COLLECTION ON BOARD SILURIAN.