Tales from the Trail: A Hebridean Cycling Adventure
Sunrise at Tiumpan Head on the Isle of Lewis, © Tierney
In 2019, Tierney Carter spent a summer at Ardnamurchan Lighthouse as a volunteer for the Trust - helping people spot sea creatures, providing info about the different types spotted in Hebridean seas and collecting data to help protect these fantastic beasts. This year, Tierney and her friend, Katie, embarked on a cycling adventure on the west coast, visiting as many Hebridean Whale Trail sites as possible…
Cycle route across the west coast of Scotland and Outer Isles, showing locations we visited along the Hebridean Whale Trail, © Tierney
Hey, we’re Katie and Tierney, two serious whale and dolphin nerds who have both just completed a Masters in marine mammal science! We decided to celebrate, by taking on a challenge we’ve long thought about: cycling the Outer Isles and west coast of Scotland. Despite having done a lot of camping and hiking before, neither of us had ever attempted a cycle tour, so it was set to be an interesting journey. As a former volunteer for HWDT, Tierney already knew that the Hebridean Whale Trail had some great locations for cetacean (the collective for whales, dolphins and porpoises) sightings. So we planned to visit lots of sites on the way, in the hopes of spotting some amazing wildlife. As expected, there were many highs and lows, with more than a few hiccups along the way, but in total: we cycled 563 miles, climbed 15,900 metres, visited 12 islands (via 7 ferries), and 8 Hebridean Whale Trail sites. Better still, we managed to spot 8 different marine mammal species, and lots of stunning scenery too!
Welcome to the Hebrides sign at Castlebay, © Tierney
We had an interesting start on our first day: a flat tyre, a nosebleed, and our panniers (bike bags) repeatedly falling off mid-cycle, but we couldn’t have been luckier with the weather from Perth to Dalmally. Day two began on the banks of Loch Awe, waking up to a picturesque sunrise that highlighted Kilchurn castle perfectly. Later that day we arrived at Oban - #24 on the Hebridean Whale Trail - and after some (well-earned) chips, got the ferry to Castlebay, Barra. We had a strong case of beginner’s luck, spotting porpoise on three separate occasions in the Sound of Mull, followed by pods of bottlenose (the Barra Boys) and common dolphins between the Isles of Coll and Barra. After arriving to a magical scene, with the town shrouded in mist, we camped at the beautiful site of Uidh, Vatersay, near the start of the Hebridean Cycle Way, finishing our day with a refreshing (AKA baltic) swim in the sea.
Morning after a storm on the Isle of Harris, © Katie
The following couple of days hit us with rain and a lot of wind, during which we quickly discovered that Tierney’s tent was not quite as waterproof as she might have hoped…always check your seams folks! The landscape was beautiful, despite the wind and rain, but the bad weather also made it difficult to spot any cetaceans along the Isles of North and South Uist, so we kept going and hurried to Harris. During the crossing, the ferry staff warned us of the hill after Tarbert, and we soon found out why! A hill >11% steep made it difficult on the thighs, but the views afterwards were amazing, and definitely worth the climb. We also got lucky experiencing the kindness of another cycling couple, Dot and Jim, who treated us to chip butties and hot chocolate – we looked liked drowned rats, so they must have taken pity on us! Doug from the Hebridean Design Co. was also very kind, letting us camp nearby his shop, and provisioning us the next morning with yummy tablet and much-needed coffee and hot chocolate.
Eventually, we made it to Tiumpan head - #2 on the Hebridean Whale Trail - though the one cider we’d had at Stornoway made the final 10 miles fairly interesting to cycle. That evening, we witnessed blue skies, flat seas and a beautiful sunset, and as we woke the next morning to watch the sunrise, we were treated with sightings of a Risso’s dolphin (aaah!!!). After visiting the Callanish Standing Stones, our day only got better, as we got to watch otters and seals on the loch whilst cooking dinner. Wild camping allows you to stay at some incredible spots, as long as you respect the environment and leave no trace. These moments just proved to us that slowing down, and spending more time in beautiful locations, really does treat you with amazing experiences.
Our view at our camp near the Callanish Standing Stones, © Katie
The next day we cycled back across the north Harris hills, to camp at the old whaling station of Bunavoneader (Bunabhainneader), where only the chimney and a few ruins remain of a once thriving whaling industry in the Western Isles. Our last evening on the Outer Hebrides was a memorable one, surrounded by gulls, gannets, herons, starlings, seals, and a lot of sheep poo! Travelling from Tarbert to Uig, Skye, the following day, we were surprised by yet more cetacean sightings on the ferry crossing: a few pods of common dolphins, and Katie’s first whale in Scotland - a minke whale!
What remains of Bunavoneader whaling station, © Katie
We spent the next few days cycling through some incredible landscapes on Skye, including the Quiraing, and the Old Man of Storr. Kilt rock - #15 on the Hebridean Whale Trail - was perhaps the most dramatic site we visited, with a stunning waterfall view. From the high vantage point, binoculars and time were all you would need to spot any wildlife that might pass this site. At this stop, two generous motorcyclists also gifted us with some Battenberg cake, and some chain oil, which the bikes sorely needed (note to self: take chain oil with you on long bike trips!). A couple of days of bad weather followed, so we took shelter at a friends house in the quaint village of Kilchoan. Whilst there, we wandered the shore in search of fossils, and again we were treated with more wildlife encounters. We added golden eagles, stags, and even white-tailed eagles to the list, and spotted not one, but six porpoise within the sound of Mull – an amazing spot, as they are usually solitary or in smaller groups. This was our final sighting of the trip, and another example of the incredible wildlife that occupies the Scottish coast. The whale trail sites are a great way to see the Hebrides, and also highlight the industrial stories that have shaped Scotland, and its marine mammals, in recent history. We thoroughly enjoyed our slow tour (yes – even the cycling), and would encourage everyone to visit these magical sites! We hope to plan other trips in the future, to enjoy more of the beautiful scenery and wildlife that Scotland has to offer… though perhaps it’s time for a new tent.
Katie (left) and Tierney (right) stopping along the route.