Last Survey of the Winter Field Season
Our winter survey programme on board Silurian has been running since 2019, learning more about the year-round presence of marine mammals and basking sharks in Hebridean seas. These surveys are important given that prior to the start of the programme, little winter data existed for the region. Below, Science Officer, Jenny, gives an update on the last winter survey of this year…
WINTER SURVEY 16th – 21st March 2022
DAY 1
As our keen volunteers arrived, we enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine while making the last preparations on board. Ronnie, Darcie, Alicia and Anna arrived, all beaming smiles.
With a variable forecast for the trip, Skipper Charlie planned to seize the best of the good weather and head out towards the Cairns of Coll and return back in to the shelter of Loch Drumnabuie in the evening. The team agreed that we should set sail as soon as possible to make the most of the conditions, so after instruction on the survey protocol, we kitted up in the shiny new Fladden suits, and began surveying.
Conditions in the mouth of the Sound of Mull were glassy calm and excellent for sightings. Our first few auk and kittiwake sightings and then a porpoise towards Ardnamurchan.
It’s not all serious science on board!
The sea state increased once out of the shelter of the Sound of Mull and we experienced 1.5m swell. Giggles of the volunteers on the mast enjoying the bounce of the bow and crashing waves over their feet could be heard from the cockpit. The visibility was excellent and we got great views of the Small Isles and snow on the Cuillins of Skye.
Bruce rushed out from the galley with excitement as a Hercules plane thundered towards us, flying low, before taking off in to the distance.
Dolphin whistles were detected on the hydrophone. On the return journey two grey seals were spotted and many creels at the mouth of Loch Sunart. Charlie and Bruce cooked up a storm of spag bol while we continued the training in survey protocol and species ID, followed by an intense few rounds of pass the pigs.
DAY 2
Training continued in the morning, focusing on acoustic recognition and distance estimation. Charlie was at 11m distance at the top of the mast! We lifted anchor and were faced with particularly difficult conditions on leaving Loch Sunart. Those on the mast endured wind and hail while happily recording creels, identifying birds and spotting a seal. Charlie caught a glimpse of a harbour porpoise from the helm.
A white-tailed eagle flew low and close around the boat twice, allowing us all to get a good look before crossing over to the Morvern shore.
Down the sound we heard dredging, well boats and very loud snapping shrimp. There was significantly more boat traffic in Loch Linnhe than in the Sea of the Hebrides. The conditions eased as we neared our anchorage in the beautiful Loch Corrie, where the mountains rise out of the sea.
As the sun set and the moon rose, Darcie and Alicia made delicious and colourful tofu rice bowls. There wasn’t a scrap left at the end. We played geography pub quiz and exchanged stories of amazing adventures while listening to beautiful songs of Ronnie’s travels.
Skipper Charlie and First Mate Bruce, at the helm
DAY 3
After and earlier start and on the way up to the Corran Narrows there were increasing numbers of birds on the water feeding. Blue sky and incredible views of snow-capped Ben Nevis and the surrounding hills. We sailed through the Lynn of Lorn, retrieving the hydrophone through the narrows and waved at SAMS as we passed.
Sailing south of Mull, the mountains looked beautiful in the distance and conditions eased before we turned south towards our anchorage at Seil. We were greeted by an otter on arrival and Canada geese calling. A few of us went ashore to walk over to the ‘Bridge over the Atlantic’ at sunset. A boggy walk, with Darcie laughing as she lost both boots in the bog! Alicia continued laughing at Darcie’s misfortune well in to the next day…
The view over the islets was beautiful with geese calling in the background. The sunset and moonrise, again, was magical and we popped up on deck to enjoy the stars after a feast of veggie haggis and mash.
DAY 4
We experienced our first excellent conditions of the trip as we began our transect north out of our anchorage at Seil. Less wind than expected, the calm water and long rolling swell gave us brilliant conditions for spotting marine life. Ronnie spotted distant large splashes, behind a creel boat. Sighting! Common dolphins, bearing 310, distance 1500m, heading 0. As I rushed down to input the sighting and grab the camera we lost sight of the dolphins. Everyone was re-invigorated, determined to try and spot them again.
We sailed along the south of Mull as far as Carsaig, looking our for the arches in the distance. The weather got stronger as we headed further west and became too poor to survey. Happy squeals and giggles could be heard from the volunteers at the mast as waves crashed over them while they sat hanging on to the deck.
We scurried back to the cockpit and all ate soup together, sitting low and sheltering from the weather. The conditions were amazing to see and the many colours in the sea incredible. The swell was large and it was bouncy to say the least, with a big list on the boat. We all loved the adventure and everyone had massive smiles on their faces between rosy cheeks.
Back on effort as the conditions eased slightly towards our anchorage in West Loch Tarbert, Jura. Approaching the barren landscape with few people and many deer, the triangular Paps rise out of the sea, Darcie made excellent hummus. Alicia was excited to for a shore visit to investigate the rock while Bruce and I went for a quick dip in the sea from shore. It was not as cold as expected, but still freezing! Brrrr…
Ronnie’s delicious mac n cheese was just what the doctor ordered when we got back. After the tasty food and a hard day on survey, everyone was particularly tired, so after a bit of star spotting in the cloud-less sky and watching the massive moon rise, we all peeled off to our bunks for an early night.
DAY 5
Charlie navigated expertly through the narrows at West Loch Tarbert and the hydrophone was deployed. We were met by more bouncy conditions on the crossing over to South Mull with beautiful greens and blues in the crashing waves and sunshine. The team continued surveying with enthusiasm, despite the difficult conditions, successfully identifying lots of birds, including our first fulmar, gannets and a few feeding kittiwakes. Dolphin whistles could be heard faintly on the hydrophone.
The Science Station below deck, where all data is entered and acoustic monitoring undertaken
The hydrophone was pulled in through the Sound of Iona where we eagerly searched for dolphins around the corner, although none were found. The pink granite looked magical in the pink setting sun, covered in chattering shags. The clouds rolled in as we turned towards our anchorage on the Ross of Mull.
We arrived in to Margaret’s Bay anchorage at sunset with amazing views of the pink-orange sand on the shore and the Treshnish Isles in the distance. After an extra-long day, covering 100km, we feasted on ratatouille, introduced Anna to the ‘after eight game’ (although this time with chocolate buttons’) and had a final two intense rounds of Pass the Pigs. Many leaning jowlers were achieved, making many an excellent photo opportunity. Anna amazed by getting 5 double razorbacks in a row! Unheard of round Silurian’s saloon table.
DAY 6
Awoke to noisy razorbills chattering around the boat in the pink sunrise over Mull. We lifted anchor early and headed north towards Staffa, excited by reports of killer whales locally. Lots more bird activity, including a single puffin, as we passed through the beautiful Treshnish Isles. Conditions eased as we rounded Calliach point and the final epic second breakfast of the trip was passed around.
The familiar sight of Ardnamurchan Lighthouse in the haze and Muck appearing in the distance as we neared home, towards the Sound of Mull. The wind picked up for our last stints on the mast. Alas, no killer whales spotted, but views of porpoise and white-tailed eagle as we rounded Ardmore Point and on in to Tobermory Bay.
We all sat beaming with a hot cup of tea, chatting about our favourite moments of the trip before giving the boat a clean and everyone disembarking.
Despite the challenging weather, Charlie, Bruce and I had a brilliant survey with a fantastic team. Thank you!
Track lines showing the area covered during the survey